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Live your videos Honestly they are truly appreciated Not many of us want to know such detail but those who do truly appreciate you. Keep up the great work Doc 👍😉

Define “stronger”? The PLA-plus probably has a higher overall yield strength, but way more deformation before final failure. The PLA-CF is more rigid, but also more brittle.

I really like your straightforward approach and the direct to the point nature of your videos. Thanks!

Subscribed it is good testing methods.

Mandala Roseworks 6mm Aluminum heated bed, Keevono heater, Microswiss FlowTech hotend/nozzles and a Carotgrapher probe. 👍👍👍

I think the metal nuts have helped to further increase temperatures as metal heats up more than just plastic - Still the PLA and PLA+ would have lost, that's for sure. Great real live comparison.

I have had one of these for a couple of years. It is still my primary filament dryer. It has many shortcomings that I've never seen mentioned in a review. First, it powers up in the "off" mode. It takes several key presses to turn it on. This makes it useless for a remotely powered printer (not a problem for everyone but a big deal to me). Timed drying isn't ideal, either. It would be so much better if it could be set to 25% humidity and simply have it maintain that level. Next, press board spools jam when they get near empty. Nearly all of my spools are press board so this caused me to not use the dryer for about a year as I couldn't print reliably past the bottom third of a spool (I would transfer the spool to a cereal container with dessicant, as it would be plenty dry by then). Lastly, the fan is total junk but that's well documented and not a show stopper, IMO.

immediately like for the music!

Prusa fan boys. I can’t wait to hear your thoughts 😂

Darn it, Dr. Gaspar you got me all excited about the K1 Max. But the inability to print brittle filaments is a deal breaker for me. I would love to see a video of your suggested fix and how it affects the printer's ability to handle brittle filaments. Thank you for your steady stream of high quality videos, your channel is one of the few that I actively follow and take to heart. You haven't made a single video that I did not enjoy watching. Keep up the great work!

I was watching some TV episode yesterday and someone said "people don't have any pride in their work these days", made me think. Vast majority of production is profit driven, meaning that everyone is striving to achieve the perfect balance between effort input and profit. In practical terms this means that they will happily sell a printer that is 85% okay, because it will bring them 100N profit, if they bring it to near perfection, like 95%, the development costs are higher, testing phase is longer, parts are more expensive and it will bring them 10N profit. That's pretty much our fault. Would you rather have a $300 printer that somewhat works, or a $1000 printer that is just amazing in almost every way? I'm a big fan of Prusa, because I can sense they're honest and have pride in their work. Yes, their printers are more expensive than the Chinese counterparts, but not by that much. What I absolutely loathe is that Chinese printers like to flat-cut their costs across the whole spectrum of parts, like (I forgot the actual numbers) $5 cooling fan producing 60dB, when they could use a $6 cooling fan producing 50dB, see what I mean? And then the user, who has been swayed into buying the printer by the low, low price, once sufficiently annoyed, has to throw away the loud stupid fans and buy high quality ones, now even just with that, the price isn't _that_ good anymore. And it goes on and on, with the less obvious parts too. I was aghast that with Ender 3, you could switch a board for a "silent" one, that has improved drivers. So that's how you paid for two boards, the crappy one, and the good one. That's why I just do not trust Creality. If they made a K1 Max "pro", with actually good parts, no dumb compromises like with the fans, charge it $200 more and somehow communicate that this is their actual honest take and they did the best they could, I would be seriously considering it. As it is, I'm still not trusting them.

The food safe filament can be treated after 3d printed to protect the build up of bacteria and not deform the printed product.

exactly what the Creality fanboys complained about when the Bambu X1/P1P came out.. but but.. we are in it for muh tinker... So funny how those who can stand back and look at the entire industry and future could call cap on this as it was happening.

At this price bambu is still better option

Yesss….more talking printers! Cracks me up when they sass you or each other. 🤣 Great review btw. I wonder if you could have printed with the broken filament. To the printer wouldn’t it seem as if the filament had run out? If so then the print would pause until more filament was inserted, at which point the bend should be within the limit of the filament and the print will complete. P.S. More talking printers! 😂

Thank you for your testing work. I have been using Bambu PETG since I got my X1C, but this has convinced me to try some other brands to see if there is better value.

Thanks!

The key issue I have seen with all of the K1 series printers is quality on the finer level. It seems they all suffer from VFA issues, as well as often dimensional issues, while also having varying bed quality. You called most of the prints perfect, but I think that's largely based on the prints completing and looking correct. However, what about compared up close to prints from other printers? Creality has a very poor extruder design. It's a small dual gear with coarse gear teeth and support on only one side of both gear axles. It produces a lot of VFA and inconsistency. While I appreciate your review and it's certainly a functional printer, I think there are better options such as by Qidi, Flashforge, and Bambu Lab. Just my opinion without a lot of personal experience, but shared by many friends and reviewers.

Hey. As always great review. Not sure if you are aware by now but you can change the speed now from the screen. It is within the movement temp section. There is also an expert section as well with flow, z offset, and nozzle pid. I love my k1 but had to manually level the bed however now I get perfect first layers. I also rooted mine and run mainsail etc.

cant turn it of tho have to remove battery

I think I will miss the accessibility and tinkering once I switch from my anycubic i3 mega s to a modern printer. Adding upgrades to the printer always feels so rewarding 😄

I've had a similar issue with filament getting wrapped around the gear with the KP3S Pro V2 extruder (which I believe is very simlar to the KLP1 extruder). I examined the extruder and found a lot of sideways play of the stepper driven drive gear and its axle. (It appears to be at least 2 mm). This is enough to allow the driving grooves to get out of line with each other so much that the filament can get between the gear teeth instead of being in the drive groove. The filament then pushes the gears apart and the filament slips between the tension gear (drive gear with the spring) and the extruder body. I've been thinking about making a bushing to keep the grooves aligned. It almost seems like a part is missing. For the KP3S V2 Pro, I found the wrapping problem is very likely to occur if you hold the 'filament switch' (spring lever) when loading filament (which is normal procedure for some other extruders) - since doing that opens up a space for the filament to slide under the gear. Instead, do not not use the spring lever at all. Just start the filament load and gently push on the filament until it gets pulled in. But it looks like the newest KLP1 extruder doesn't have a 'load lever' at all... so apparently that just leaves an issue with how the filament is guided into the extruder gears. I agree with you about the unnecessary idle noise. The KP3S Pro V2 has the same issue. The board and power supply fans go on 100% within a few seconds of power on even when the heaters and motors are off. It was the first complaint I had about the machine.

Is there a cutout in the door for the screen? I smell some kind of modification...

Love these kinds of videos. I've tried several brands of PETG, Overture, Voxel and eSun and only Overture yields acceptable prints on a P1S.

Another great video Thanks for sharing your journal events that you had on your tour 🙂

Did they fix the VFA issue? Also the hotend design seems to really struggle with softer filaments, leading to lost of build up pressure in the hotend. I have the regular k1, lots of issue I still have yet to address to get clean prints. Also there an issue with dimensional accuracy at the outer are of the bed. So instill have to go into the k1 to fix all the issues with it, essentially modding it. I really hope the k2 has solved all these issue.

Sorry to all the other youtubers that also reviewed this printer, but this review is the best one by a great margin!! - All the other ones Ive seen missed IMO relevant points like: print accuracy, actual quality of non PLA prints, or included/missing features of the touch display.

The bed level is horrible had to convert it to manual bed leveling with springs and turning knobs.

Considering Creality printers never come working correctly I would argue modification is not dead!

One of the first things I did with my K1 Max is change out the hot end to the Flowtech and the nozzle to a 0.2mm. Next on my list is linear rails and pulleys...

You don't need to modify anything (after you fix creality's numerous mistakes), but you can mod to your hearts content

Why doesn’t the Bambu camera show better video? That’s disappointing, I’ve used a Blink mini camera on my m5c and it’s phenomenal.

The filament spool must be at the top side, on the roof. And must be covered by some heat deflection material maybe with foil.

Core XY is completely unnecessary and over complicated for 90% of users. Unless you’re printing large objects very quickly, you probably don’t need the hassle and cost of a CoreXY. A custom bed slinger has made a Benchy in 1 min 59 secs without a heated bed, so I think bed slingers are underrated.

bambu dropping their first printer was the monolith moment in 3d printing. grateful they got every other brand to wake up and get their sh!t together

I wonder if you really need the glue stick. My printer came with one and I’ve never used it. Worth experimenting without it for common materials at least to save yourself time and mess.

3D Printer is maturing - the thing is going the same route as Paper Printers (and that's good). We don't "tune" or "mod" our HP Desktop Laser printers. We hit "print", there comes a paper with stuff printed on them. I use my Bambu P1S basically the same way. We were tuning 3d printers because they were bad, actually. Excellent video, Igor!

You can go on printables to see if it is dead or not. This printer has a ton of issues both software and hardware, and you got the most recent revision, I had it for 6 months and I wish I just bought voron kit or just other printer.

fun video! what filament dryer do you believe of all of them that you tested are the best (like a top 3), since i am in the market for one and really couldnt decide after watching all your test videos

Hi, I would like to know which temp are you running with PETG CF ? Nozzle and bed. I’m surprised about some results !

excellent video and very timely! I have been researching coefficient of friction and relative wear for the most common filament materials as I want to print slide bearings for a new project. Before I saw your video I had settled on PETG instead of nylon because of it's lower friction. I think maybe I should try some test parts of them both and possibly include the hardest TPU I can find. I saw that Igus has filament for printing their bushings but alas, that stuff is expensive! $98/750g

But, how can i see the results when i make a roll? I am a beginner in the RPG comunity

I don’t think the glue is necessary at all - QIDI also sent a glue stick, never used it. I am about to test a really fast printer next week, they also sent me a glue stick 😩😂 For separation I always use hairspray - it doesn’t change the bottom texture in any noticeable way.

Just a note that, in my experience, printing inside an enclosure with opened doors is somewhere 'in between' printing entirely without an enclosure, and printing with a closed one. Even with open doors it maintains about 5-10 degrees Celsius higher than the room. After all, it's still enclosed on 5 sides.

what knife is that?

Thanks for this great video. It is really useful.

You put a smile on my face with this video

what about TPU instead?